Fit a Glass Splashback: From Template to Silicone (Step-by-Step)

Back-painted glass splashbacks look sleek, wipe clean in seconds, and protect the wall from heat and splashes. Here’s a clear, UK-friendly guide to fitting one safely and neatly.

Before You Start (Important)

Use toughened (tempered) glass only near hobs. Learn more about tempered glass. Toughened glass cannot be cut or drilled after manufacture.
Check cut-outs (sockets, switches) were made at the factory and edges are polished.
Compatibility: Use a neutral-cure silicone or approved high-tack adhesive suitable for back-painted glass. Avoid solvent-based adhesives that can attack paint.
Heat clearance: Follow your hob manufacturer’s guidance. Keep required distance or fit a heat shield if specified.

Tools & Materials

Suction cups (2x) & 1–2mm plastic packers
Spirit level & masking tape
Neutral-cure sanitary silicone / approved panel adhesive
Degreaser (isopropyl alcohol), lint-free cloths
Sealant gun & profiling tool

1) Prep the Wall

Remove dust and grease; fill high/low spots. The surface must be flat, dry and sound (painted plaster, primed plasterboard, or existing tiles are fine if solid). Degrease the wall and the back of the glass (avoid the painted face).

2) Mark Your Level Line

Offer the panel up with suction cups. Check level and gaps to worktops, cabinets and sockets. Lightly mark a level reference line with masking tape.

3) Dry Fit with Packers

Place 1–2mm packers on the worktop or upstand where the panel will sit. This gives a neat shadow line and room for sealant.

4) Apply Adhesive

Run vertical beads or golf-ball-sized blobs at 100–150mm centres across the back (unpainted edges). Keep 20mm in from the perimeter so adhesive doesn’t squeeze out. Do not smear the whole back; leave air paths so curing can occur.

5) Set the Panel

Lift with suction cups; angle the bottom edge onto the packers.
Rotate gently back to the wall, aligning to your tape line.
Press evenly across the surface — don’t hammer or lever against corners.

6) Check Level & Hold

Confirm level. If needed, use low-tack tape across the face to hold while adhesive grabs.

7) Seal the Perimeter

Mask both edges, then run a continuous neutral-cure silicone bead around the perimeter (worktop joint and verticals). Tool once, then remove tape immediately for a crisp edge.

8) Curing Time

Follow adhesive instructions. Typical: 24–48 hours before heavy cleaning or heat exposure.

Pro Tips

If installing behind a gas hob, confirm minimum distance or use a heat-rated backer as per manufacturer guidance.
For long runs, consider expansion gaps at ends (2–3mm) — hide with silicone.
Colour matching: request a sample or RAL reference before ordering the final panel.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using acetoxy silicone (vinegar smell) which can damage paint or metal — choose neutral-cure.
Skipping packers (panel can bind on worktop and crack during settlement).
Forcing a panel over out-of-square walls instead of correcting the substrate.

FAQs

Can I stick onto tiles? Yes, if tiles are solid and degreased. Rough up glossy tiles lightly for better grab.

What thickness is best? 6mm is a common, premium choice for kitchens; 4mm can work on smaller panels. Read more about tempered glass.

How do I remove one later? Carefully cut the silicone edge, then use a wire/cheese-cut to separate adhesive pads. Wear eye protection and gloves.

Not sure about clearances or adhesives? Ask Glass Helper for a quick recommendation.