Safety Glass And Glazing Examples In a Modern UK Home
Expert Advice · 2025
Read time: ~7–9 mins · Updated: 20 Sep 2025
Choosing the right safety glass isn’t just about looks—it’s about keeping your family safe and your project compliant.
This quick, practical guide shows typical UK “critical locations”, when to use toughened vs laminated glass,
and simple steps to measure, order, and install with confidence.
Tempered Glass — Made to Measure.
Where safety glass is required in UK homes
Use safety glass where impact risk is higher or glazing sits close to doors/floors. Common “critical locations” include:
- Within and around doors (side panels, glazed doors, door panes)
- Low-level glazing close to the floor (often up to ~800–1500 mm, context-dependent)
- Bathrooms and showers (screens, enclosures, splash zones)
- Balustrades, Juliet balconies, landings, stair edges
- Internal partitions and room dividers in busy areas
Tip: If in doubt, assume safety glass is needed for low-level or high-traffic locations and request compliance marking on the pane.
Toughened vs laminated — which to choose?
Toughened (Tempered)
Best for: shower screens, doors, shelves, table tops.
Why: Up to ~5× stronger than ordinary glass; breaks into small granules.
Plan ahead: Cannot be cut or drilled after toughening—finalise measurements & hardware first.
Laminated
Best for: balustrades, shopfronts, acoustic or UV-reduction needs.
Why: Two panes bonded with an interlayer; fragments adhere if broken, helping maintain a barrier.
Consider: Heavier; ensure suitable supports and edge protection.
Common thicknesses & edge options
Small doors, shelves, screens
Shower doors/panels, medium screens
Large screens, frameless doors, table tops
Low-level safety glazing, acoustic/UV control
Edges: arrised (basic smooth), polished (premium clear), bevelled (decorative). For exposed edges, choose polished.
How to measure & order correctly
- Check squareness. Measure width top/middle/bottom; height left/centre/right. Use the smallest dimension.
- Allow clearances. Leave 2–4 mm fitting tolerance (confirm with hardware/seals).
- Choose hardware early. Hinges, channels, clamps decide hole sizes/positions for factory processing.
- Specify edges & corners. Polished edges for visibility; radius corners where exposed or child-reach.
- Compliance marks. Request appropriate safety markings where required.
Installation tips for a neat, safe finish
- Use setting blocks/gaskets—never rest glass on bare metal or masonry.
- Match clamps/channels to thickness and load; avoid point-loading corners.
- For showers: leave expansion gaps; use neutral-cure silicone; fit seals after alignment.
- Final check: plumb, level, square—tighten hardware before sealing.
Care, cleaning & warranty basics
Use a soft cloth and non-abrasive, ammonia-free cleaner. Squeegee showers after use to reduce limescale. Keep proof of purchase and any compliance labels for your records.
Ready to order toughened glass cut to size?
Frequently asked questions
Do I need safety glass next to doors?
Yes—glazing within and around doors is usually a “critical location” and should be safety glass, especially at low level.
Which is safer—toughened or laminated?
Both are safety glass. Toughened is very strong and granulates; laminated retains fragments via its interlayer, helping maintain a barrier.
Can you cut toughened glass after it’s made?
No. All cuts/notches/holes must be specified before toughening.
What thickness for a shower screen?
8–10 mm toughened is typical for frameless doors/panels. Confirm with hardware guidance.
Is laminated good for sound reduction?
Yes. The interlayer improves acoustic performance vs monolithic panes of similar thickness.
How do I protect visible edges?
Specify polished edges; use compatible gaskets/blocks; avoid point loads on corners.