Tips

Glazing Guide · 2025

Read time: ~7 mins · Updated: 29 Sep 2025

Energy bills, comfort, and noise control are top concerns for UK homeowners. Choosing between double glazing and triple glazing can have a big impact — and the right choice may also involve using tempered safety glass or laminated units depending on location and building rules.

What is double & triple glazing?

Double glazing uses two panes of glass separated by a spacer (air/argon) to reduce heat loss and improve insulation.
Triple glazing adds a third pane and spacer, delivering lower U-values (better thermal efficiency) and, with the right build-up, more sound insulation. For impact-prone or low-level areas, consider tempered glass or laminated options within the unit.

Performance comparison

Typical UK values (actual performance varies by spacer gas, coatings, and frame quality):

Key benefits of triple glazing

• Lower U-values for superior thermal performance (reduced heat loss in winter).
• Improved comfort — fewer cold spots and drafts near windows.
• Better noise control in busy or urban locations (build-ups with laminated panes help most).
• Reduced condensation thanks to warmer internal pane temperature.
• May assist with EPC rating improvements and long-term value.

Trade-offs & drawbacks

• Higher cost (often 30–50% more than double glazed units).
• Heavier and thicker — may require new frames rather than retrofitting into old ones.
• Slightly lower light transmission vs equivalent double glazed units.
• Marginal efficiency gains in milder regions if you already have modern double glazing.

References:
GreenMatch UK,
Everest Windows,
WindowWise

Frequently Asked Questions

Does triple glazing always save more on heat bills?
If your current glazing is older or inefficient, yes—triple glazing reduces heat loss and can lower energy costs over time.

Is the extra cost justified?
It depends on climate, orientation, existing insulation and how long you’ll stay. In colder areas or noisy zones, the benefits are clearer.

Will triple glazing reduce natural light?
Slightly — there’s an extra pane. High-transmission coatings can minimise the effect.

Can I retrofit triple glazing to older frames?
Usually not. Most older frames lack the depth or strength; new frames are typically required.

How long do glazed units last?
Modern double glazing: ~20–25 years; triple glazing: ~30+ years with proper installation and sealing.

Quiet Comfort · 2025

Read time: ~6 mins · Updated: 28 Sep 2025

Acoustic glass is a powerful way to reduce unwanted noise, improve comfort and wellbeing at home or in the office.
Whether it’s traffic, neighbours, or internal sound, acoustic-rated glass offers measurable sound reduction.
This article explains how it works, where to use it, and what to consider when choosing acoustic glass.

How acoustic glass works

Acoustic glass typically consists of two or more layers of glass with a special interlayer, often PVB (Polyvinyl Butyral) or other acoustic PVB, sandwiched between. This interlayer dampens vibration from sound waves, reducing how much of the noise passes through.

• Multi-layer laminated glass construction with acoustic interlayers.
• Different thickness combinations and interlayer types give different sound reduction ratings (Rw dB).
• Seal quality, frame type, and installation strongly affect overall noise reduction.

Key benefits

• Reduces traffic, airport, or street noise entering living spaces.
• Improved privacy in office partitions or conference rooms.
• Better sleep quality with quieter bedrooms.
• Enhanced concentration and productivity in workspaces.

Where to use acoustic glass

• Homes near busy roads or noisy external environments.
• Offices and meeting rooms where speech privacy is needed.
• Schools, hospitals or public buildings needing quiet zones.
• Bedrooms, shared walls, media rooms, or nurseries.

What to check before purchase

• Look for an acoustic rating (Rw or STC) to understand how many decibels reduction you get.
• Check interlayer type and thickness—different interlayers perform differently.
• Ensure the glass is properly sealed in the frame; gaps or poor seals reduce effectiveness.
• Consider toughened or laminated safety glass if safety or code regulations apply.

For high quality acoustic glass, see tempered glass options for safety-certified panels.

References & further reading:
Pilkington Acoustic Glass Technical,
Glass & Glazing Federation sound insulation guidelines,
UK Building Regulations Approved Document E

Frequently asked questions

What is the typical decibel reduction I can expect?
Good quality acoustic glass can reduce external noise by approximately **30-50 dB** depending on thickness, interlayer quality, sealing, and frame type.

Does laminated glass always reduce noise?
Yes—but the degree depends on interlayer thickness/quality. Acoustic PVB interlayers are specifically designed to damp sound better than standard ones.

Is acoustic glass more expensive?
Typically yes—due to extra interlayer, lamination, better sealing and thicker glass. But the benefits in comfort often outweigh the costs in noisy environments.

Can standard glass provide any noise reduction?
Standard clear glass provides minimal noise insulation. Multiple panes, double-glazing and acoustic interlayers are far more effective.

Innovation Feature · 2025

Read time: ~6-7 mins · Updated: 27 Sep 2025

Smart glass that switches from opaque to clear with the flip of a switch or app is fast becoming a premium design and privacy solution.
“Switchable smart glass” offers modern aesthetics, variable privacy, and control — ideal for homes, offices, medical settings and more.
Here’s how it works, what it costs, and where it shines.

How the technology works

Switchable smart glass typically uses **PDLC (Polymer Dispersed Liquid Crystal)** film sandwiched between panes of glass. When an electrical current is applied, the PDLC aligns the liquid crystals, making the pane transparent. Remove the current, and the crystals scatter, turning it opaque.

• Layers: two glass panes, the PDLC film, and sometimes a protective laminated or toughened outer layer.
• Power source: typically low voltage, wired small controllers or smart switch integration.
• Speed: transitions in less than a second.
• Light control: opaque mode diffuses light; clear mode allows full visibility.

Key benefits

• Privacy on demand — great for meeting rooms, bathrooms, or street-facing windows without needing blinds or curtains.
• Sleek, modern look with minimal hardware.
• Potential energy savings by reducing need for additional shading or decorative elements.
• Flexibility — control via wall switch, remote, or smart home integration.

Where to use switchable smart glass

• Office partitions and meeting rooms for privacy and openness as needed.
• Homes: bathrooms, bedrooms, and street-facing windows.
• Healthcare: patient room privacy, operating theatres, or waiting areas.
• Retail and hospitality: display windows, bars, restaurants, or conference spaces.

Things to consider

• Cost is higher than static glass because of the PDLC film and electrical components.
• Installation requires wiring and switch/inverter access.
• Some light leakage in opaque mode—may need film finish or frame design to reduce halo effect.
• Maintenance: ensure controller and power supply are protected and correctly sourced.

If you’re considering this technology, then check custom glass solutions and tempered / safety glass which can be combined with smart glass layers.

References & further reading:
The Guardian: Smart Glass Explained,
ScienceDirect: PDLC Technology,
Cogglas Smart Glass Products

Frequently asked questions

How long does switchable glass last?
Typical PDLC film lifespan is 10-15 years depending on usage, environment, and quality of electrical components.

Is switchable glass energy efficient?
It helps reduce need for shading and blinds, and in opaque mode can reduce solar gain. However, the energy to power the film must be considered.

Does it require safety glass?
Yes—if the glass is in a door or low window, safety classifications (toughened or laminated) are often legally required.

Can the glass be retrofitted?
In many cases yes—film-based PDLC layers or retrofit panels exist, but wiring and edge sealing must be properly done.

Glass Knowledge · 2025

Read time: ~7 mins · Updated: 25 Sep 2025

When choosing safety glass for windows, facades or interiors, two common heat-treated types come up:
toughened (tempered) and heat-strengthened.
They may sound similar but their strength, breakage pattern and safety classification are quite different.
This guide explains the key differences and where each is best used.

What is toughened (tempered) glass?

Toughened glass is standard float glass heated to ~620°C and then rapidly cooled. The rapid quench puts the outer surfaces into compression and the inner core into tension, making it significantly stronger.

• ~4–5× stronger than ordinary annealed glass.
• Breaks into small blunt granules — safer for people nearby.
• Recognised as safety glass under BS EN 12150.
• Common in doors, shower screens, balustrades, furniture and partitions.

What is heat-strengthened glass?

Heat-strengthened glass is produced in a similar way but cooled more slowly. This gives it a lower surface compression than fully toughened glass, with different performance outcomes.

• ~2× stronger than ordinary annealed glass.
• Breaks into larger shard-like pieces (not safety glass alone).
• Recognised under BS EN 1863.
• Often laminated to provide safety — suitable for curtain walls and structural glazing.

Detailed comparison

Where each type is used

• Toughened: Best for areas with human impact risk — shower enclosures, doors, balustrades, partitions.
• Heat-strengthened: Favoured in architectural glazing (curtain walls, facades) where glass is laminated and distortion must be minimized.

Learn more about tempered glass options
or explore custom cut glass solutions for your project.

References & further reading:
BSI: BS EN 12150 Toughened Glass Standard,
BSI: BS EN 1863 Heat-Strengthened Glass Standard,
ASTM C1048-21: Heat-Treated Flat Glass

Frequently asked questions

Is heat-strengthened glass considered safety glass?
No. Unlike toughened, it does not meet the breakage pattern requirements to be classed as safety glass unless laminated.

Which is stronger, toughened or heat-strengthened?
Toughened (tempered) glass is around 4–5× stronger than annealed, while heat-strengthened is about 2× stronger.

Why would someone choose heat-strengthened glass?
It offers lower optical distortion than toughened, making it better for laminated curtain wall glazing where aesthetics matter.

Can either type be cut after treatment?
No. Cutting, drilling or edge finishing must be done before heat treatment. Post-treatment modification will cause breakage.

Which has better thermal resistance?
Toughened glass resists temperature differences up to ~200 K, compared to ~100 K for heat-strengthened.

Glass Comparison · 2025

Read time: ~5-6 mins · Updated: 24 Sep 2025

Choosing between frosted and clear glass can make a big difference in privacy, lighting, style and cost.
Whether for windows, bathroom partitions or office dividers, understanding the pros and cons of each will help you make the right choice for your project.

What is frosted glass?

Frosted glass is created through sandblasting, acid etching, or applying a frosted film to clear glass. The process diffuses light and obscures visibility, providing privacy while keeping spaces bright.

• Delivers privacy without blocking natural light.
• Reduces glare and harsh sunlight—popular for bathrooms, shower screens and office partitions.
• Available in decorative designs (patterns, gradients, custom textures).
• Costs slightly more due to extra processing.

What is clear glass?

Clear glass is unaltered transparent glass, allowing full visibility and maximum daylight. It’s the most common type of glass for windows, doors and partitions.

• Unobstructed views and bright natural light.
• More affordable compared to frosted or decorative glass.
• Ideal for living rooms, shopfronts, and modern open-plan designs.
• Lacks privacy—usually paired with blinds or curtains.

Side-by-side comparison

Which glass fits which situation best?

• Bathrooms & showers: Frosted glass ensures privacy.
• Office partitions: Frosted for discretion, or a mix of clear and frosted for balance.
• Living rooms & shopfronts: Clear glass maximizes light and visibility.
• Street-facing windows: Frosted or clear with privacy film depending on need.
• For added safety, consider tempered glass or specialty finishes like satin glass for a softer frosted look.

References & further reading:
Saint-Gobain Glass UK,
NSG Group (Nippon Sheet Glass)

Frequently asked questions

Is frosted glass more expensive?
Yes, because it requires additional processing like etching, sandblasting or film application. Clear glass is generally cheaper.

Does frosted glass block light?
No, it diffuses light—making it softer and reducing glare without fully blocking it.

Where is clear glass best used?
In living rooms, commercial facades, or anywhere you want maximum transparency and daylight.

What’s the difference between frosted and satin glass?
Satin glass has a smoother, silk-like finish compared to traditional frosted, giving a modern aesthetic with the same privacy benefits.

Do building codes matter for glass choice?
Yes—low-level windows, partitions in wet areas, or doors often need safety-certified glass under BS EN standards. Always check local building regulations.

Design Guide · 2025

Read time: ~7 mins · Updated: 22 Sep 2025

Choosing the right shower screen design can transform both the look and function of your bathroom.
In the UK, the three main styles—frameless, semi-frameless, and sliding—each bring unique advantages and trade-offs.
This guide compares them to help you pick what’s best for your space, budget, and aesthetic, while staying compliant with Glass & Glazing Federation guidelines and FENSA regulations.

Frameless

Frameless shower screens are minimalist and modern. They don’t have any metal frame around the edges of the glass, giving a seamless, clean look. Key features include:

• Usually 10mm toughened glass or thicker — strong enough to stay rigid without a frame.
• Minimal hardware (hinges, clips) to support the glass; often high quality stainless steel or chrome finishes.
• Wide open feel — ideal for walk-in showers or bathrooms with glass as a design feature.
• More expensive, heavier glass, and requires careful installation for drainage and sealing.

Semi-Frameless

Semi-frameless screens are a compromise between frameless and framed designs. They include small frame parts (typically around glass edges) and can offer good value and flexibility. Highlights:

• Glass usually 6-8mm thick; small frame parts offer extra support without the full cost of a full frame.
• Good for standard bathroom layouts, offering a more premium appearance without the full expense of frameless screens.
• Hardware and profile frames (for example, along the top or edges) help support and reduce flex or movement.
• Lower cost and easier to install than frameless, but slightly less aesthetic purity and more frequent cleaning of frame edges.

Sliding

Sliding shower screens are excellent for maximizing space, especially in smaller bathrooms where swinging doors aren’t practical. Key points:

• Glass panels slide on tracks (top and/or bottom), sometimes semi-framed for added stability.
• Thickness typically 6-10mm depending on design; thicker glass needed for larger panels.
• Great for compact bathrooms since sliding doors don’t require clearance to swing open.
• Requires track maintenance and periodic cleaning to ensure smooth operation.

Head-to-Head Comparison

Frequently asked questions

Is frameless always better?
Not necessarily—it looks sleek but needs thicker tempered glass, premium hardware, and careful sealing. Budget and space should guide your choice.

What thickness do semi-frameless screens usually use?
Typically 6-8mm safety glass. Reinforced options may allow larger panels.

Are sliding shower doors safe?
Yes—if the glass is BS EN safety certified and hardware is properly installed. They’re ideal for small spaces.

Which design offers the best balance of cost and style?
Semi-frameless often provides the sweet spot—modern look with reasonable cost and simpler installation.

Buyer’s Guide · 2025

Read time: ~6 mins · Updated: 21 Sep 2025

Ordering custom cut glass online can save time and money—but mistakes in the process can lead to wasted orders and costly replacements.
Here are the top 5 mistakes homeowners make when ordering glass online, and how you can avoid them.

Mistake 1: Wrong measurements

Many customers measure their old glass instead of the actual frame opening. This can result in panels that are too large or too small.
Always measure the frame opening in multiple places (top, middle, bottom for width; left, centre, right for height) and use the smallest measurement with a fitting tolerance (2–3 mm).

Pro tip: See guidance from FENSA on correct measuring for compliance.

Mistake 2: Choosing the wrong thickness

Glass that is too thin may flex or break, while unnecessarily thick glass adds cost and requires stronger hardware.
For most shower doors, 8 mm toughened is ideal; for balustrades, 10–12 mm may be required. Always match thickness to application.

Mistake 3: Ignoring safety glass rules

UK Building Regulations require safety glass (toughened or laminated) in “critical locations” like doors, side panels, or low-level glazing under 800 mm.
Ordering standard float glass for these locations is dangerous and non-compliant.

For reference, check Glass & Glazing Federation (GGF) safety guidance.

Mistake 4: Skipping edge finishing

Unfinished edges can be sharp and unsafe. Specifying polished edges or bevels not only improves safety but also appearance, especially for visible edges on shelves, table tops, or doors.

Mistake 5: Choosing only the cheapest option

Going with the lowest price can mean cutting corners on quality, certification, or after-sales service.
Look for suppliers who provide BS EN 12150 certified toughened glass or laminated glass, and clear warranty terms, even if it costs a little more.

Frequently asked questions

Can I measure old broken glass instead of the frame?
No—always measure the frame opening. Old glass may not represent the correct size and can result in errors.

Do I always need toughened glass?
Yes in critical locations like doors, low-level glazing, or bathrooms. Toughened glass is 5× stronger and safer than float glass.

What’s the best edge finish for shelves or table tops?
Polished edges are best for visibility and safety. Bevelled edges add decorative style but increase cost slightly.

Is laminated glass better than toughened?
Each has advantages. Laminated holds together on impact (best for security/balustrades), while toughened is stronger against sudden force. Sometimes they are combined.

Should I always pick the cheapest supplier?
Not always—low prices can mean poor aftercare or non-certified glass. Always check reviews, compliance stamps, and guarantees.

Glasshelp Guide · 2025

Read time: ~6–8 mins · Updated: 20 Sep 2025

Deciding the right thickness for your shower glass is more than just durability—it affects safety, aesthetics, cost, and the look of your bathroom overall.
In this updated guide, you’ll see what 6 mm, 8 mm, and 10 mm glass offer, with comparisons, safety norms, and tips to help you choose smartly.

Why thickness matters

Thickness impacts a few critical things in glass shower design:

• Strength & rigidity: thinner glass flexes more; thicker glass maintains shape better under use.
• Safety: tougher glass reduces risk, especially in large or frameless panels.
• Appearance & finish: thicker glass feels premium and often looks more substantial.
• Hardware requirements & cost: thicker glass needs heavier hinges, stronger fixings, more care in installation.

6 mm vs 8 mm vs 10 mm comparison

Which thickness for your shower setup

• If your glass width is under ~800 mm or you’re using a framed screen, 6 mm is cost-effective and safe enough.
• For frameless or semi-frameless screens of moderate width (e.g. ~800-1200 mm), 8 mm gives less flex and better durability.
• For premium walk-in showers, large panels or doors, go with 10 mm—just ensure your fittings can support the weight.

Installation, cost & safety

• Check that all fixings, hinges, and hardware are rated for the thickness you choose.
• Expect higher shipping & handling costs with thicker glass.
• Edge finishing: polished or safety-finished edges reduce risk and improve appearance (especially for exposed edges).
• Always use toughened safety glass certified to BS EN 12150 and check CE or UKCA marks. :contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}
• Consider spill, water spray, door movement: flex can cause strain, seal wear, leaks if glass is too thin for the span. Thicker glass helps mitigate this.

Safety standards & regulation

Here are some UK rules and expert references to help you stay compliant:

• According to GlassGuide from ToughGlaze, shower doors are often sold in 6-12 mm thickness, with 8 mm & 10 mm being very common, and all panels required to be certified to BS EN 12150. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
• Building regulations require safety glass for glazing within 800 mm of the floor or within 300 mm of a door’s edge, and in door panels/sidelights lower than 1 500 mm from floor level. :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}
• Glasstrends uses 10 mm toughened safety glass certified to BS EN 12150 and impact tested to BS EN 12600 for its frameless showers. :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}

Frequently asked questions

Is 6 mm glass safe enough for shower doors?
For smaller or framed panels, yes—but for frameless or wide doors, 8 mm or above is usually safer and more durable. Many UK manufacturers specify BS EN 12150 toughened glass for safety. :contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}

Will 10 mm make a visible difference?
Absolutely for large spans—10 mm gives a more rigid, premium feel with less visual flex. But you pay more and need strong hardware. Examples from Glasstrends and ToughGlaze confirm this. :contentReference[oaicite:5]{index=5}

Does thicker glass require special maintenance?
Not really—just care with edges, seals, hinges, and using non-abrasive cleaners. No special cleaning needed beyond standard care.

Expert Advice · 2025

Read time: ~7–9 mins · Updated: 20 Sep 2025

Choosing the right safety glass isn’t just about looks—it’s about keeping your family safe and your project compliant.
This quick, practical guide shows typical UK “critical locations”, when to use toughened vs laminated glass,
and simple steps to measure, order, and install with confidence.

Where safety glass is required in UK homes

Use safety glass where impact risk is higher or glazing sits close to doors/floors. Common “critical locations” include:

• Within and around doors (side panels, glazed doors, door panes)
• Low-level glazing close to the floor (often up to ~800–1500 mm, context-dependent)
• Bathrooms and showers (screens, enclosures, splash zones)
• Balustrades, Juliet balconies, landings, stair edges
• Internal partitions and room dividers in busy areas

Tip: If in doubt, assume safety glass is needed for low-level or high-traffic locations and request compliance marking on the pane.

Toughened vs laminated — which to choose?

Common thicknesses & edge options

Edges: arrised (basic smooth), polished (premium clear), bevelled (decorative). For exposed edges, choose polished.

How to measure & order correctly

1. Check squareness. Measure width top/middle/bottom; height left/centre/right. Use the smallest dimension.
2. Allow clearances. Leave 2–4 mm fitting tolerance (confirm with hardware/seals).
3. Choose hardware early. Hinges, channels, clamps decide hole sizes/positions for factory processing.
4. Specify edges & corners. Polished edges for visibility; radius corners where exposed or child-reach.
5. Compliance marks. Request appropriate safety markings where required.

Installation tips for a neat, safe finish

• Use setting blocks/gaskets—never rest glass on bare metal or masonry.
• Match clamps/channels to thickness and load; avoid point-loading corners.
• For showers: leave expansion gaps; use neutral-cure silicone; fit seals after alignment.
• Final check: plumb, level, square—tighten hardware before sealing.

Care, cleaning & warranty basics

Use a soft cloth and non-abrasive, ammonia-free cleaner. Squeegee showers after use to reduce limescale. Keep proof of purchase and any compliance labels for your records.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need safety glass next to doors?
Yes—glazing within and around doors is usually a “critical location” and should be safety glass, especially at low level.

Which is safer—toughened or laminated?
Both are safety glass. Toughened is very strong and granulates; laminated retains fragments via its interlayer, helping maintain a barrier.

Can you cut toughened glass after it’s made?
No. All cuts/notches/holes must be specified before toughening.

What thickness for a shower screen?
8–10 mm toughened is typical for frameless doors/panels. Confirm with hardware guidance.

Is laminated good for sound reduction?
Yes. The interlayer improves acoustic performance vs monolithic panes of similar thickness.

How do I protect visible edges?
Specify polished edges; use compatible gaskets/blocks; avoid point loads on corners.

UK homeowner’s guide. Yellowed or cracked shower door seals cause leaks, squeaks and a tired look. This step-by-step shows you how to choose the correct profiles, measure precisely, remove residue without scratching, and fit new seals for a clean, watertight finish. If you’re comparing glass strength types while upgrading, skim our primer on tempered glass first.