Fit a Frameless Glass Shower Door (Step-by-Step)

UK homeowner’s guide. This walkthrough shows you how to fit a frameless glass shower door cleanly and safely — from measuring and drilling tiles to aligning hinges, sweeps and seals for a leak-free finish. If you’re comparing glass strength types, read our short primer on tempered glass first.

Overview

A frameless door relies on precise measuring, correct hinge placement and the right seals. Most domestic doors are 8–10 mm toughened glass with two hinges, a bottom sweep, and optional magnetic or edge seals. Plan slowly, work methodically, and use neutral-cure silicone around wet joints.

Safety & Prep

Weight: A 900×2000×10 mm panel can weigh ~45–50 kg. Always lift with two people and suction cups.
PPE: Gloves, eye protection, long sleeves; protect edges and corners at all times.
Electrics: If drilling near cables/sockets, isolate power and scan the area.
Glass facts: Toughened glass cannot be cut or drilled after manufacture — sizes and cut-outs must be final. Learn more about tempered glass.

Tools & Materials

Two suction cups, soft pads, 1–2 mm plastic packers
Spirit level, square, masking tape, pencil
Drill/driver, low-speed setting; diamond or carbide tile bits
Wall plugs/fixings for your substrate (tile over board/brick/stone)
Neutral-cure sanitary silicone (clear) & sealant gun
Hinges + gaskets, handle, bottom sweep & side seals (as supplied)
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and lint-free cloths

Measure & Order

Opening survey: Measure width at top/middle/bottom; height left/centre/right. Note the smallest numbers and any out-of-square.
Hinge side: Decide left or right swing; check obstacles (vanity, towel rail, WC).
Threshold: Check the tray/floor is level. A slight inward fall towards the shower is good; outward fall needs correcting.
Deduct tolerances: For wall channels, the manufacturer specifies deduction. For wall-to-hinge glass (no channel), confirm hinge set-outs and seal allowances with the supplier.
Order spec: Thickness (8–10 mm), hinge cut-outs (or channel), handle holes, clear polish edges, and safety stamp.

Installation Steps

Tip: Mask reference lines so you can mark accurately on finished tile. Work slowly; accuracy beats speed.

Mark hinge positions: Offer the hinge side/channel to the wall; use a level to mark the vertical line. Mark fixing holes through the hinge plate or channel.
Drill the tiles: Use a sharp diamond/tile bit on low speed. Start at a shallow angle to score the glaze, then go square. Do not hammer drill through the tile. Swap to masonry bit only after clearing the tile if the substrate requires it.
Fix wall hardware: Insert appropriate plugs. For channels: run a thin bead of silicone behind the channel (moisture barrier), then screw off plumb. For surface-hinges: fit the back plates level, using the supplied gaskets.
Dry-fit the door: With two people and suction cups, lift the glass onto packers. Engage hinges loosely. Check gaps to the wall, tray and head; adjust as needed. This is where you perfect alignment.
Tighten hinges correctly: Fit all gaskets; never allow metal to touch glass. Tighten evenly to the manufacturer’s torque guidance — firm, not brutal.
Fit handle & sweep: Install the handle with its gaskets. Cut the bottom sweep to length and push it on; the fin should just kiss the threshold for smooth closing without scraping.
Edge/magnetic seals: If supplied, push-fit along the latch side or fixed panel. Ensure the magnets meet with a gentle draw, not a slam.
Final alignment: Close the door and check: even gaps, consistent sweep contact, smooth swing without self-opening. Use hinge adjustments to correct drift (out-of-level causes creep).
Seal as needed: Silicone the outside perimeter where glass meets wall channel and where the channel meets tile. Do not trap water by sealing both inside and outside; follow the hinge/channel instructions.
Cure time: Leave silicone to cure fully (often 24 hours) before heavy showering or cleaning.

Clearances & Tolerances (Quick Reference)

Detail	Typical value	Notes
Perimeter gap to wall	2–4 mm	Hidden by channel or seal
Bottom sweep contact	Light touch	Fin just kisses threshold
Magnetic latch line	Flush meeting	No forced overlap
Hinge set-back	Per hinge data	Protects tile edge; prevents binding

Common Mistakes (and Fixes)

Over-tightening hinges: Can bruise glass or warp alignment. Loosen, re-seat gaskets, re-tighten evenly.
Wrong silicone: Acetoxy (vinegar smell) near back-paint/metal can cause issues — use neutral-cure.
Sealing inside and outside: Traps water; only seal as the hardware instructions specify.
Ignoring fall of the floor: If water runs outward, adjust sweep angle or correct the threshold before sealing.
No dry-fit: Always test with packers and tape before final tightening.

Aftercare & Maintenance

Daily: Quick squeegee after showers to prevent mineral lines.
Weekly: pH-neutral cleaner + microfibre on glass and hardware; never abrasive pads.
Quarterly: Check hinge screws and seals; replace yellowed sweeps. Consider a protective coating to slow limescale.

FAQs

8 mm or 10 mm?
Both are common. 10 mm feels more premium/heavy; 8 mm is lighter and easier to hang. Either way, use properly rated hinges and fixings.

What causes drips at the hinge side?
Usually a missing or incorrect seal, or the door not sitting plumb. Re-seat gaskets, add the correct seal and re-align.

My door drifts open/closed by itself — why?
The opening or hinge line is slightly out of level. Use hinge adjustment (if available) or re-shim the plate.

Is laminated glass better than toughened?
Laminated adds a bonded interlayer that holds fragments; toughened breaks into small cubes. For most shower doors, toughened is standard — learn the basics on tempered glass.

Not sure about hinges or seals? Ask Glass Helper for quick advice or professional installation.